But will it warm my lunch on top of the light fixture?

In 1920 they were selling bulbs that went for 2500 hrs. In the 1940s, back to 1000. In the 80s the Russians had them going for 40,000hr. The 1000 hr is a result of planned obsolescence to drive demand and rip you off.

Hmmm I have come to appreciate unshielded or NON diffused light sources - as every step to "diffuse, reflect or redirect" usually chops swathes of light energy out of the initial output.
I use lights to I can see - not so I can waste power on crappy designs that "soften and fuzzyfy" the light.
I make my own LED lights, straight drive, off a DC supply either directly from the AC mains, and I avoid the use of current limiting by simply under driving them.
This means that if their peak voltage is 3.5V, then I run them in strings with enough of them, so that they collectively each get about 85% of the divided voltage - with each running somewhere between 2.8V and 3.2V.
It means that they all put out slightly less light, but there is also more of them.
QED - while I don't have decades to measure them, with under driven LED's - I think I am looking at about 200,000 - 300,000 hours plus per light.
The REAL idea of LED lights is their LOW power consumption and their extremely long lives.
So GE and their short life light bulbs... you know where the management of GE can insert them don't you.

Long life incandescents still exist, see http://www.lightbulbsdirect.com/page/001/CTGY/ICLL_A19 but I suspect they run at lower temps than regular bulbs and so are even less efficient.

100% of my household lighting is LED. Bathroom lighting used to be 240 watts now 20 watts for warm light, living room was 300 watts with halogen spots and floods now 40 watts with LED outside backyard lighting, was 300 watts from two halogen PAR 38 lamps now two PAR 38 7 cree lamps using 40 watts total, energy saving should recoup my investment in 2.5 years,, OH WAIT it already has!

@ Bill Bennett
In making the switch from incandescent to LED - I bet a HUGE part of your power bill just "vanished".

Long live LED! All of my electricity is solar, so I don't suppose it matters in my case. However, I gladly use LEDs and look forward to the LDD technology. One day, I'm guessing, we'll be able to get our lighting from the sun ...

Holly Shit, I didn't think Gizmag readers would fall for this. A 100W Equivalent CFL is only 23W!!!!, better than an LED? and cost $2.75 each over at Home Depot.
Nothing lasts as long as it should. It assumes that you don't have power surges or bad wiring, over several years (20+) you are going to have some power issues and poof there goes your investment.
Let's use Each type of lighting for what it is good for Incandescent = Heat CFL = Omni-Directional Lighting LED = Single-Directional Lighting

I bought dimmable Philips EnduraLED bulbs to replace incandescent interior flood lights. I was afraid that they wouldn't be bright enough, but I actually find it better to dim them a little because they're so bright. I think that they are much brighter than a 100W incandescent, but Philips rates them at 610 lumens and 1800 candela. I don't know what that means. Mine are 4200K but they also offer 2700K and 3000K--I see the 4200K as bright white without being blue and are similar in color temperature to my halogen fixtures (maybe a little cooler). They're rated at 40,000 hours.
Anyway, I'm totally happy with them. I think it's important to know that most LED bulbs are not dimmable so it's important to know what you want. My halogen bulbs run very hot, but the fixtures I have couldn't accommodate any LED bulb that I have ever seen (I have those long skinny halogens).

25,000 hours is a real bulb life. The 50,000 to -100,000 hr life quoted, especially by the Chinese, ignores power supply failure in the bulb. As far as comparing Switch Kighting to GE, it's apples to oranges. "Cold" light is a more efficient locus of operation than a warm one. LEDs will outshine (pun intended) CFLs in a couple of years...still early days in terms of the lumens/W you get out of the LEDs themselves.