The Himalayas are every adventurer’s dream – those towering peaks, those winding roads, and that overwhelming feeling of grandeur that humbles even the most experienced traveler. But the truth is that it takes more than just packing your backpack and booking the tickets.
There’s much more to it, a reality often overlooked in vacation brochures, that goes beyond the picturesque vistas and snow-clad peaks. Even I, growing up with the Himalayas virtually in my backyard, had to learn a few things the hard way.
I remember when I took my first ever journey to the roof of the world. I must have been in my late teens – a heavy rucksack strapped to my back, camera in hand, and a head full of hopes and dreams of conquering the mountains... Instead, they conquered me. By day 3, I found myself on the return bus back home. I was sick, sunburnt, and defeated.
So here's a few things you need to know before you travel to the Himalayas.
Permits, and lots thereof
One of the first curveballs you'll encounter is the unexpected web of permits required to access different parts of the Himalayas. While there are some places that are open to domestic and international travelers alike, and don’t need special permits, several iconic routes – especially in Ladakh, Arunachal Pradesh, and Sikkim in India – require Inner Line Permits (ILP) or Protected Area Permits (PAP).
You'd think I'd have learned by now, but it still catches me out. Overlanding to the eastern flank of the upper Himalayas in Arunachal Pradesh a few months back, I realized my dumb ass had forgotten to pre-apply for permits required to cross certain high-altitude passes. As a result, I burned an entire day running around in torrid rains trying to arrange the right paperwork.
Don't let this stop you – the permit process isn’t particularly difficult, but it can be time-consuming, especially if you’re unaware of where and how to apply.
Here’s a pro tip: Always check for permits at least a week before your trip. Some can be applied for online, while others require a visit to local offices. Carry multiple photocopies of your ID and permits – you’ll need them at almost every military checkpoint.
Public transport: The reality
If you’re picturing a romantic train ride through mountain passes, the reality might disappoint you. Public transportation in the Himalayas is gritty, inconsistent, and often overcrowded, but it does exist and can be a deeply immersive experience if you’re up for it.
Buses, shared taxis, and local jeeps are the main forms of transport in high-altitude regions. They’re cheap, but slow and subject to the whims of mountain weather. Not to forget, bumpy!
I still remember when I was making my itinerary for one of my initial trips to the Himalayas. I scraped in seven destinations thinking I’d be able to travel (and cover) them in as many days. I ended up making just two of them!
That’s because a 100-km (62-mile) journey might take an entire day in these remote mountains, especially if you encounter landslides or roadblocks – which, by the way, are more common than you’d think.
And in case you’re planning to rent motorcycles or 4x4s, especially in regions like Manali-Leh or Spiti Valley, it’s a great choice to do some exploring of your own. Especially since rental options have improved in these regions over the years. But – and there’s a big but – it's essential to inspect your vehicle thoroughly beforehand. Nothing is worse than finding yourself stranded on the side of a remote Himalayan road.
The terrain: It isn’t just tough – it’s alive
I’m sure you’ll be wise enough to check up on the weather beforehand, but that's not the only environmental condition you need to know about – the constantly-changing Himalayan terrain can foil the best-laid plans overnight. Roads that were there yesterday could vanish overnight due to landslides, or a glacier-fed stream might flood your path in the afternoon when the sun is at its peak. This is a living landscape that can shift with the weather.
Then, there’s the altitude. I’m not unfit – I can hike a few miles, lift a backpack, and even survive on minimal rations for a few days. But altitude? It changes everything.
I remember I was hiking a little over 11,500 feet in Chitkul in India, a beautiful village overlooking the towering peaks of Tibet. Suddenly it felt like I was breathing through a straw. I had no appetite, a thumping headache, and zero motivation to go any further. It only got worse as I climbed. And worst of all, I was alone.
I took a pit stop to gather my thoughts, took the last sip of water from my bottle, and walked straight back where I came from. I kid you not – the altitude doesn’t give you a chance.
So, give yourself enough buffer days in your itinerary for bad weather or roadblocks. Don’t push to cover too much in a day; the Himalayas reward patience, not speed. And if you're new to high altitudes, acclimatize properly before heading above 10,000 feet. Lesson learned!
Route mapping: Be wary
Digital maps are great – until they’re not. In many Himalayan regions, GPS can be wildly inaccurate. It might show a road where none exists or direct you through routes that are closed half the year. Even worse, it might ignore essential factors like road conditions, fuel stops, or altitude gain.
In my personal experience, locals remain the best GPS in these regions. They know which roads are closed, where landslides are likely, and how much time a stretch actually takes. I’d recommend carrying some paper maps, practicing your cross-language barrier charades, and downloading offline maps (like Maps.me or offline Google Maps) for worst-case scenarios.
Tourist traps: Stay clear
Scrolling over the vast depths of social media, it’s easy to assume that Himalayan travel is too rugged or remote for commercialism, but tourist traps have popped up even in the most remote valleys.
By all means go through these if you enjoy overpriced “traditional” homestays, fake trekking guides, highly commercialized spiritual experiences, or "miracle cures" for altitude sickness.
And of course, the scams. Don’t be surprised, for example, if a cab driver suddenly asks for double what you had agreed to pay at the end of the ride. Safe to say, most locals are warm, welcoming, and honest. A little awareness and healthy skepticism go a long way in avoiding disappointment.
I’d advise you to do your research ahead of time. Look for community-run homestays, vetted guides, and locally recommended shops or eateries. Word-of-mouth remains the most reliable source in the hills, and the best place to eat is usually the most crowded. Even better if it’s run locally – never disappointed me thus far.
The Himalayas are beautiful and unlike any other piece of terrain on Earth. The people are generous and warm, the landscape is breathtaking, and the experience is unlike any other. These mountains fill me with awe and national pride, everyone should see them at least once! Take care of the basics, and you could have the best trip of your life.
